We had reservations for a direct train back to Venice. Courtney called the Taxi company & told them when we needed to be at the station. This time, we'd ordered the tickets on-line, so had no hold-up at the station. Boarding the train, it was the most luxurious we'd been on. Very few people on-board on an early Sunday morning. Relaxing just to sit back & watch the scenery go by.
Along the Coast~
With no further connections to make, we arrived in Venice in good time. I'd wanted to go ahead & take the commuter train over to Hilton Gardens, where we'd spend our last night.
Venice Train Station~
Courtney had some last minute shopping she wanted to do. Lunch was sounding really good too, since we'd not had breakfast. We checked our bags at the station, the line was long, but eventually we had our claim ticket.
Another beautiful Cathedral~
The day was the warmest so far & more humid than at the coast. On the streets, the town was the busiest we'd seen it! We originally were going to walk back to the Hard Rock Café store, but after trying to make time through the crowds, we changed our minds in favor of lunch.
A tall girl standing outside a restaurant caught my eye & in English - said; "The food is wonderful!" I asked if she had something in a quiet corner & we were soon seated. A very savvy business owner, to have someone who spoke English to bring in customers.
Another amazing piece of art~
The above painting was my view from our booth. The usual great food, if a bit pricy, since we were on a main thoroughfare.
On the streets~
With so many people in town, the shops were as busy as the streets were full.
Coming down the steps from one of the many bridges~
Those who know me, know I'm not big on crowds. It was a sudden change from the quiet of Cecina & the beach.
A very busy place~
Courtney did some shopping while I stood against a wall in the shade & enjoyed what I knew would be my last Italian Gelato.
Street Vendors~
Courtney found the last of her gifts for the kids & we went back to the train station to recover our bags. We bought tickets, but nowhere did the ticket give a bin number or destination? Courtney went to the Trenitalia booth twice. Finally, scanning the departure boards, we thought we had the right train & boarded. This commuter train was to cross the bridge over the waterway to the mainland.. People were getting on right up until the last minute before the train pulled out. The train was so full all the seats were occupied & it was standing room only.
We saw our stop coming up, the train slowed, but didn't stop! We tried asking fellow commuters, who told us it would stop at the next station. That would be one past where we'd wanted to disembark. I was very glad I'd listened to my daughter & we'd stayed in town to eat & shop, rather than go to the hotel & try to return to town. The area the train was traveling through became more industrial.
We made the decision to get off there. After all, we could catch a train the other direction, but I was done with trains! The Hilton assured us we were close, but they didn't have a shuttle available. It was getting late in the day. We walked the short distance to the nearest local hotel & caught a cab.
Hilton Gardens~
Checking into the Hilton Gardens, I was glad we'd spent our first days in the Italian hotels. Our room was spotless & comfortable. Courtney went to do laundry. David had called a couple times. First to say my seat had been upgraded, then that the seats had remained the same, at the back of the plane.
I called Delta, determined to find a way to get seats that might be more comfortable. I was dreading a repeat of the flight here. I spent over an hour on the phone. The Delta representative did her best, but explained, when they sell seats to Expedia, they are unable to make changes. I offered to pay more, but no luck, the plane was full.
Our last evening, still full from lunch, we nixed dinner. Both tired & anxious to get home!
By the time Courtney was done explaining my special needs to Giulia of Venice Boat Rent, I'm sure she & Alessandro had no idea what to expect :-) We crossed the last bridge to our planned meeting place & watched as a smaller water taxi pulled away. I was just starting to think that I'd made a bad decision, when we were approached by a tall, friendly looking Italian man, who greeted us by saying; "You must be looking for me, I'm Alessandro!"
Alessandro~
After introductions, we walked along a nearby canal & to his craft, tied to a pier. The photo above, from the web site, is a few years old. The wind screen is now gone, making it easier for Alessandro to talk to whoever is in the front of the boat. A smaller boat than I'd expected, Courtney took the seat in the rear & I sat up front. Alessandro started the outboard & we were on our way down the waterway.
Under the bridge!
Courtney had been absolutely right - the perspective from the water was so totally different & so in keeping with the feel of a city built on water. Motoring along the canal was really fun!
Łaguna de Venesia
It wasn't long, until we'd left the smooth water of the city & were heading NE on the Laguna. Our first pass-by, was of a small square island - a Greek Orthodox cemetery.
Once home of a monastery, Napoleon turned the island into a cemetery. The monastery was demolished, but the church remains.
Large trees on the island~
We continued along the shore a way - before making the turn west toward the canal that acts as a central passage way through the Laguna. Muranois a collection of seven islands linked together by bridges, where the world famous Venetian glass is made. With a population of about 5,000 - it seemed to have a timeless quality.
Murano main canal~
Murano's buildings were smaller in stature, but the shades of various colors were as warm & wonderful as any we'd seen.
Above is one of the two main churches on Murano. The glass sculpture below, was stunning! In 1921 the Doge of Venice asked the glass makers to move their factories to Murano, as a precaution against possible fires that could be caused by the hot furnaces.
Artist - Simone Cenedese
It was obvious that even with the move, the industry has thrived & the island dedicated to it's main source of employment & income. Two of the bridges here were so low, we had to duck!
Behind the alter of the above church is said to be the large bones of a dragon slain by Saint Donatus of Arezzo. Churches & their towers dominated the skyline. Each stunning & distinctive in it's own unique way.
Exiting the north end of Murano's main canal, we picked up speed through the central waterway to the northern islands. Many boats were coming our direction! It was like driving on a one-way street, at rush hour, in the wrong direction! Sitting up front & watching all this traffic coming at us - fast - was certainly a rush for me! Alessandro just laughed & said that they were returning home from the boat races that had been held earlier in the day. Soon we passed the eastern shore of Mazzorbo on our way to Burano.
The craft above was a beauty, sleek & smooth. It also looked to be much more streamlined than the tourist gondola's that we'd observed in Venice. Had we known, it would have been fun to have come out to watch. I think that would have involved bobbing up & down though!
Burano
Soon, we were entering the canals of Burano, where the brightly colored homes vied with each other for attention. All were a striking contrast against the blue of the sky & water. Very quiet, hardly anyone around. Alessandro described Burano's history as a fishing village. The women used to hand knot the fishing nets, but now the younger generations are no longer interested. Famous for lace making - it seems that too will soon be a lost art.
Torcello Cathedral
Far off to the north - as we circled out to the eastern shore of Burano, I could see the square tower of yet another church on the skyline. Alessandro asked if we'd like to go see it & of course we said yes!
Original entry~
On the way, we went along a marshland. I asked if we could go near enough to see the soils & plants. Alessandro explained that what I was seeing, was exactly what the entire city had been built on! It looked like a sandy, gray loam, similar to the loam of the Loess Hills of Iowa.
Well north of Burano, we circled Torcello to dock at the edge of a walkway, leading to the Cathedral courtyard. Very little of the original structure remains, but it's age was apparent.
Originally built in 639 it is the oldest in Veneto. We could see parts of an archeological dig off to one side. So quiet - as we stood admiring the age of the structure & the history it represented. The late evening light was perfect, turning the color of the brick to burnished copper. I was taking the above video - when the bells started ringing! Obviously, someone was on the island besides us.
It was an amazing experience to stand in a place so rich in history. There was a stone water fountain where a trickle of water was flowing. Alessandro said the water was good & I tried a handful. It has a slightly mineral taste. We returned to the boat & headed SW on a small canal through the heart of Torcello.
Under a bridge on the Torcello canal~
Past Torcello, we entered another mid-sized canal that went through the center of Mazzorbo. The water was totally still, mirroring the colors of the homes. We left just the slight wake from our boat flowing behind us.
The church below is the only one - of ten churches that were originally on the island.
Heading back, the cloud cover had obscured the sun, but sunset was strikingly beautiful. Afternoon had turned to dusk & we were still a way from the city. Once we left Torcello, Alessandro picked up speed - my Garmin was recording about 18-mph or close to 16 knots. Take the time to view the video's below & you'll be adding Venice to your travel list.
On the way out, I'd spotted another tower that looked like a lighthouse, on the NE corner of Murano. As we came back by - the light was on!
As we passed Murano, it seemed that we were racing darkness, as were a few other boats returning from the various islands. The lights were coming on in Venice & the moon was near full. The temperature had dropped a few degrees & I was wishing I'd thought to bring a jacket.
Alessandro brought us back in from a slightly different direction & it was stunningly beautiful. One of those experiences in life - that you never want to end. We thanked Alessandro for such an incredible tour. It was just 8 p.m. & we were in time for our dinner reservation.
Dinner was outstanding. We both ordered Eggplant & it was by far the most amazing dish either of us had tasted. Of course we'd been told that there is no bad food in Italy & we found that to be 100% true!
Our Boat Tour Route~
As we walked back to our hotel, there were a few groups of people sitting at tables near the canal. The evening ambiance was palpable. We both wished that we'd had more time to enjoy this city & it's people.
Courtney had really enjoyed her evening boat ride on the Grand Canal. We both slept in a little before packing up & going the block over to the Hotel Pesaro Palace. We had managed to take the last available room. Monday, was a "Bank Holiday" so the town was even more booked than usual.
Courtyard of the Hotel Pesaro~
At the top floor, we took a small staircase to a room up & under the eves! Very quaint, with two rooms, two AC units & roof windows that opened to let in fresh air. This bath too was all marble & huge. Settled in, we walked only a block, before finding a nice little corner coffee shop with bar seating that faced the street. Coffee & tea in hand, it was fun just to sit & watch the people going by. Having gone east the first day, we decided to go the opposite way today.
Along the Grand Canal~
We looked at the boat dock that Courtney had left from last evening & couldn't help but admire the quintessential Venice views. With no particular destination, wandering the streets & discovering what was around each corner was fascinating. The chalk artist below was working on a magnificent almost 3-d rendering of a lion.
Street Artist~
The little girl standing next to Courtney was captivated. The colors of the buildings changed as we walked. The warm hues just exactly as we'd imagined. Add the myriad of blue/green waterways to the picture & it would be easy to spend months admiring this city & still never see it all.
One of the smaller waterways~
It was close to 2 p.m., when almost everything closes down for the afternoon quiet time. Our morning sweet had worn off & we were ready for a snack. We'd passed a very small shop front, that didn't look very welcoming from the street. I decided to take one more look. As I walked past the counter, I saw that the little wine bar went much deeper into the building than we'd originally thought.
Our afternoon Pausa Pranzo~
On the counter was a plate filled high with what looked like meatballs. I had to try one! The shrimp was fresh & wraps contained zucchini & cheeses. We shared what turned out to be a delicious meal, sitting by a window looking out on a small waterway. The fresh breeze off the water felt wonderful on a hot, humid afternoon.
A residential plaza~
After the wine, our motivation for walking dimmed a little, but we continued on, both wanting to capture what we could of the architecture. The buildings seem to be such a mix of cultures. We couldn't decide which, nor did we know enough of the history to recognize the variety of styles.
Waterfront ~
Even showing age, most seemed well maintained. We'd managed to find our way to a quieter part of the city, close it seemed to the ocean.
Smaller boats, on a residential waterway~
The amazing blue sky, reflection of the water & colors of the buildings just continued to captivate us. With no cars, many deliveries are made with large hand carts. Similar to the shape of those we use to haul hay at endurance camps, but much larger. Boats are used to go any distance.
Many small bridges too~
Courtney had asked me earlier in the day if I wouldn't like a boat ride? I thought about it & told her that if she could find a boat that would take us out & away from the city, to some of the islands, I might try it. She started making calls. I also had to add the stipulation that the boat, once underway, could Not stop in the water! No bobbing up & down for me! :-)
Bell Tower~
Courtney has missed her calling, as a top notch tour guide. Her text was returned & we were set for a two-hour excursion that would start at 5:30 p.m. & return us to town by 7:30 p.m. Two-hours sounded possibly two-hours too long, but I was willing to give it a go. After all, they could drop me off somewhere if I couldn't handle it - right?
Our Evening Dinner Reservation~
We also made dinner reservations after 8 p.m. at this restaurant recommended by the boat owners. This was where we were to meet our Captain! Next: Evening Tour - Laguna Veneta~
The landing at Marco Polo Airport did Not come fast enough! Sometime during the night I'd felt the plane really speed up & the ride smoothed out. I had tried to sleep, but being in the 38th row back, was just miserable. I even folded the blanket they gave us & put it & the pillow on my seat to relieve the pressure on my spine.
About an hour before landing - Courtney called the stewardess over. She took one look at me & suddenly several crew members were at our row. A nurse came from first class. If you paint a mental picture of what Mrs. Santa Clause would look like - this lady fit it perfectly! A jolly smile, gold rimed glasses, curly blond hair & to top it all off - an apron! She ordered oxygen & once I had air, I felt better almost immediately. We were asked to stay on the plane until the other passengers had disembarked. A wheelchair had been ordered for me! I of course told them; "NO, I'm fine to walk out!" But I got a wink from one of the stewardesses who said; "Take the wheelchair!" OK, I wasn't going to make a scene.
We walked to the front of the plane, the Captain wished me well & a young, handsome Italian man had me in the chair instantly. He asked for my passport & away we went! Courtney had to jog to keep up! We passed literally hundreds of people lined up to clear customs & went to the front of the line! He asked Courtney what form of transportation we were using to get to Venice & took us right to the boat dock.
On the waterway to Venice ~
Well... a Water Taxi sounds like fun, until you're on one. The day was unseasonably hot & the passenger cabin was very low, with a glass top that made it into an oven. Every time another boat would approach, our Captain would slow almost to a stop until it had passed. I was at the very front & saw that there was a latched window with a rope on the handle. I unlatched the four latches & opened it. There was a huge sigh of relief from the other passengers as the fresh air flooded in.
Venice in the distance~
What we thought would be a short trip, seemed to take forever & my recovery was becoming very short-lived... Courtney & I decided that we would get off at the very first stop! We didn't care where that was, any solid ground would do!
The other passengers weren't getting off, but we did! Courtney had her I-phone & a map app that she used to plot our course through the city. Pulling our already too heavy suitcases, we started our trek.
Iron work~
Amazingly, Hotel Foscari Place wasn't far at all! We were checked in quickly & made reservations for dinner - that a included a cruise on the Grand Canal. The hotel had it's own private deck right on the canal. I declined the cruise.
Courtney~
We went to our room; spacious, clean & very old world with huge hand cut beams that ran the width of the high ceiling. Courtney went straight to the shower. The bathroom was the size of most motel rooms in the states & all marble! I couldn't get to a bed & lay flat fast enough! We were warned not to sleep upon arrival, or suffer from jet lag. I did have a brief nap before Courtney woke me. A shower felt so good & soon - we both felt recovered & ready to walk the town.
Walking town~
An incredibly stunning city. So many amazing buildings, so many new sights & sounds. Almost overwhelming in it's grandeur. Water, water everywhere! I started taking photos of all the small canals, but soon realized that there were too many!
Lover's locks~
Courtney had read about the custom of people buying locks, some very elaborate & inscribed with their initials to lock onto the iron railing of the pedestrian bridges. Eventually the city has to come along & cut them all off. Too many weigh down the bridge.
Shops lined both sides of all the narrow streets. Dazzling displays fought for our attention. Glass, one of my favorites, tempted us in to view all the treasures.
The Candy Store!
The candy store was one of the largest I'd ever seen. Every kind of candy imaginable by the barrel full! Since candy was something consumable, we of course had to buy a taste or two! Italians do love their chocolate & their sweets!
Rollers of dripping chocolate~
Each & every store had something amazing to draw you in. Leather, Italian leather - some of the finest in the world. The usual tourist type items, t-shirts, hats, fans, you name it, it was yours! The street vendors were a very mixed group. Many nationalities & wares from almost everywhere But Venice.
Street Vendors~
The narrow cobblestone streets were at times - so full of people that you could hardly make your way. At one point, we decided that a cruise ship must have unloaded it's passengers. There was a wave of people coming at us. We'd duck into some little shop that was completely empty & within minutes it would be full of people who'd followed us in. We did turn down one more secluded street, drawn by the color of the church on the corner.
Each building seemed to have a personality of it's own~
The town exuded the feel of it's long & colorful history. We hadn't gone much farther before we were stopped by a very polite man who told us we were now in a private area. How sad that residents have to pay personnel to keep the tourists away. We apologized & turned back.
Who's the tourist?
After every few blocks, the streets would open into some type of square with a statue. We gave up taking photos of all of those too :-) Dinner is no earlier than 7:30 in all of Italy! We were starved & a table by the water, attended by a suited waiter, was the perfect end to the day.
Our first dinner in Italy~
Dinner - also consists of several courses - each & every one better than the last! The dinner wines were so much better than anything I'd tried before. Never a connoisseur of wine, I think I could become one here. The final course was some type of citrus & cream dessert.
The Grand Canal at dusk~
The gondolas were so beautiful & quiet on the water. So much nicer than the noisy, motorized craft full of tourists, that monopolize the waterway during the day. Courtney was soon escorted to the dock to depart on her evening boat ride on the Canal. I'd had more than enough of being on water, so retired to our room.
From our window~
I walked out on the small deck overlooking the street. A beautiful city, day or night & it felt so strange yet welcoming. Our hotel had a sister hotel just a short distance away with a room available for Sunday night. We'd already decided to delay our departure to the villa & stay another day.
